Against the Grain

Words by John Streit. Photos by Mickey McCarthy, Daniel Brittain, Colin Breland, Allen Harcourt & Billy Ficke.

This time of year, I love these kind of days. A steady southerly wind flow pushed up warmer water temperatures along with a solid shot of extremely angled south swell for the region on Monday, Nov. 24. While the coldest days of the season are certainly ahead, we’ve already experienced our fair share of frigid days; making this pocket of warm weather a welcomed relief. Of course, a day of fun surf is always welcomed as well. For all the positives, the balancing factor was a strong sideshore current created by the persistent angled swell and accompanying south-southwest wind. This translated to an all-out battle against the grain if you wanted to hold your spot in the lineup. Inevitably, a walk back to the top of the peak was needed every couple of waves — a small price to pay for some warm late-autumn swell.

First look: Avalon Pier. You're out there! Photo: Brittain.

An unidentified stylist gets some coverage. Photo: Brittain.

There were some absolute bombs detonating on the northside of Avalon Pier in the morning. Later in the day, the size dropped a bit and the action shifted to the southside. Photo: Brittain.

S&A team rider Noah Barnas makes straight A's, which means his mom let him play hooky to get some Outer Banks surf! Lucky boy! Photo: Brittain.

A backhand hook from an unidentified ripper. Photo: Brittain.

Noah Barnas snaps it off the top on an insider. Photo: Brittain.

The angle of the swell created a pointbreak-like affect. Photo: Brittain.

Avalon wasn't the only spot reeling off beautiful waves. Photo: Harcourt.

More frontside lip service from Noah Barnas. Photo: Brittain.

This shot from Mickey McCarthy really shows how the Outer Banks can transform from a peaky beachbreak to pointbreak with the swell angle. Photo: McCarthy.

A tail-high flyby from Jeffrey Myers. Photo: McCarthy.

Jeffrey Myers sizes up a backside bowl. Photo: McCarthy.

Nigel Haynes snaps a tight backside turn. Photo: McCarthy.

An unridden beauty. Photo: Harcourt.

S&A teammates John Streit and Conner Barnes on their 100th walk to the top of the peak. Photo: Breland.

Conner Barnes charges into one of the juicer wave of the afternoon. Photo: Breland.

Virginia Beach's Brendan Petticrew blows the lid off this Avalon peeler. Photo: Brittain.

Sterling King was blasting some huge rotations. Photo: Brittain.

A moment after the previous capture, Sterling King goes deeper into his rotation. Photo: Breland.

John Streit climbs this chunky closeout. Photo: Breland.

An unknown ripper lays it down. Photo: Brittain.

Cody Hammer spelunking the inside's caverns. Photo: Harcourt.

An unidentified ripper airs it out on the inside. Photo: Brittain

Quentin Turko took full advantage of the skatepark-like ramps. Photo: Breland.

Another unidentified gouge. Photo: Breland.

Conner Barnes eyes his exit. Photo: Breland.

Nohea Futrell wraps a roundhouse. Photo: Breland.

Conner Barnes drops his wallet and throws a fan. Photo: Breland.

Corey Hanks blows up this end section with a tail blow. Photo: Breland.

Danny kept shooting into the evening's low light and came out with some awesome speed-blurs. Unidentified. Photo: Brittain.

The same swell also sent waves to Virginia Beach. Adam Vaughn hangs ten at First Street. Photo: Ficke.