Words by John Streit. Photos by Shaun Devine & Streit.
It’s been said that expectation is the root of all heartache. In surfing, that’s most definitely the case. You check the forecast or a camera, and immediately the mind is flooded with visions of how you think it’s going to be. Inevitably, the actual conditions will differ — sometimes for the better, but many more times for the worse. That’s why days like Labor Day, Monday, Sept. 1 are so special. I woke up that morning expecting that I wouldn’t catch a wave, a preconceived notion based on a forecast of ankle- to knee-high surf. But when Shaun gave me a call and said the camera was showing a clean, little, ridable wave; I figured going for a paddle would be a fun start to the day. Sure enough, the conditions again differed from my expectations. Fun waist- to stomach-high peelers, clean conditions and plenty of sunshine greeted our gaze. With the GoPro in hand, we took advantage of a very well-formed right with no one else around. Having been in a real labor daze from the long hours of work that come our way around Labor Day, scoring some unexpected waves was a real gift.
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