Patience is a Virtue

Squally conditions and dicey winds threw us a curveball in the morning. By afternoon, the Atlantic was the only thing throwing curves — the good kind. Photo: Devine.

Words by John Streit. Photos by Shaun Devine and Streit.

Patience, (pāSHəns), noun: The capacity to accept or tolerate delay, trouble, or suffering without getting angry or upset.

Whether we like it or not, the life of an East Coast surfer is intrinsically linked to this virtue. From macro to micro, we’ve all chosen a path that leads us down a winding, bumpy road. The ride is as challenging as it is rewarding, so long that you possess “the capacity to accept or tolerate lengthy flat spells, frigid winters, fickle winds and hours of sandbar searching without getting angry or upset.”

After a historically placid summer, the Atlantic has been coming to life as of late. Even as our thirst for solid surf is being quenched more often, patience within these swell events serves as a microcosm to the East Coast lifestyle itself. The delicate dance between prediction and expectation can be enough to frustrate even the most disciplined searcher. But if you play your cards right, that winding, bumpy road leads to the destination at which we all want to be.

Thursday, Nov. 7 on the Outer Banks was no exception to this golden rule. Enduring 5 a.m. alarm clocks, relentless morning sideshore winds, dozens of spot checks and plenty of waiting eventually led an afternoon session of Hatteras doing what it does best.

Patience is a virtue, indeed.

After a windy morning session and checking a ton of spots, it was a relief to walk over the dune to see conditions finally start to come together. Photo: Devine.

By the time I got out of the water to shoot, the tide was really starting to drop, creating some hell-drop ledges and squared-up drainers. Shaun Devine with style that makes it look easy. It isn’t. Photo: Streit.

This swell, at this spot, required perfect execution of inevitable late drops in order to make it. Todd Pace shined during this session because of just that. Photo: Streit.

The goofyfooters’ backside barrel riding skills were put to the test. Steve Owens passed with flying colors. Photo: Streit.

Clean, green and mean. An unridden grinder shows its teeth. Photo: Streit.

Some of the waves warped around the sandbar to create long, wide pits like this. Todd Pace, locked in. Photo: Streit.

Steve Owens, under the ledge. Photo: Streit.

Nearly every look up the beach produced vistas like this. Mind surfers welcome. Photo: Devine.