Single Fin Sunday

Words and photos by John Streit. Surfing by Shaun Devine.

As Shaun and I walked up the beach from our surf/photo session, it dawned on us that we had broached the subject just last month in his “Full Circle” series: Sometimes when you least expect it, the ocean delivers the goods. Online forecasts and reports called for it to be choppy, onshore and small on Sunday, Feb. 24 — the kind of winter day most surfers would rather ride out on the couch.

We were no exception. After splitting from a late brunch, we figured it was a nice enough afternoon for the dogs to go for a run on the beach. I arrived first, and while the dog went full-bore in her favorite playground, my eyes couldn’t be removed from the right-handers running down the beach at the North End. “Wait… it’s like waist-high, maybe bigger. They weren’t calling for this. Look at that one! AHHH! I’m blowing it…”

Once the dogs ran themselves tired, it was a sprint back to the house to grab up gear and get back to the beach while will still had daylight. My frustration of leaving my gear in Sandbridge turned to stoke when Shaun gave me his camera. After all, we had clean rolling lines, golden afternoon light and Shaun’s 6’6 single fin to work with.

Shakespeare said — and I couldn’t agree more — “expectation is the root of all heartache.” I guess that means surprise is the root of all happiness.