Photos & words by John Streit.

I’ve always felt a magnetic draw to mornings like this. The ethereal conditions – slack-winded autumn mornings paired with ample sunshine and playful rolling swell – cast equal parts excitement and serenity upon the soul. The rhythmic pulse of the ocean washes away the stress left behind on land, allowing one to reconnect with the real world with which nature continually beckons us. When everything falls into place – as it occasionally does – the stage is set for another one of the many dozens of nameless, weightless morning sessions that tend to unfold along the Outer Banks this time of year. No named storm, no hype, no crowds: just corduroy lines rolling in to our little slice of heaven.

Micro-perfection on the Outer Banks. Photo: Streit.
Will Holmes trims in to the green. Photo: Streit.
Shaun Devine on one of the more sizeable set waves of the day. Photo: Streit.
Inside trim with Jordan Brazie. Photo: Streit.
An unidentified Outer Banks local puts in some early tube time. Photo: Streit.
Not one drop out of place. Photo: Streit.
An unidentified Outer Banks surfer fans some back-lit spray. Photo: Streit.
Jordan Brazie sets up the inside barrel section. Photo: Streit.
Photo: Streit.
Shaun Devine rode his fresh Valaric twin-fin for the first time. It looks shaper Jordan Brazie provided Shaun with a great fit. Photo: Streit.
Groomed. Photo: Streit.
Jordan Brazie had a fresh custom of his own to take on its maiden cruise -- this one a twin fin by Bill Frierson. Photo: Streit.
Shaun Devine drives through another morning runner. Photo: Streit.

Leave a Reply