Surfer Snapshots: Max Aaron

S&A: What first drew you toward surfing?

MA: In my brother’s early years, he was big into competitive surfing and some companies like Billabong and WRV were hooking him up with free stuff, and I thought that was the coolest thing. I always have looked up to him in that regard and wanted to follow that path, although I’d rather just surf for fun now. I didn’t start surfing until I was probably 15. Before that I was competitively bodyboarding. My friends heckling me to start surfing played a huge role, too.

S&A: Which memories stick with you the most from your early years in the water?

S&A: Do you recall when when you really felt like things began to “click” for you on a surfboard?

MA: Right out of high school I was having a pretty rough time: my dad passed away, I wasn’t too keen on college, and some other crap. I was basically in a huge rut, so I poured all of my focus into more positive activities, like my surfing. During that whole year my surfing really began to blow up. If it was flat or pumping, I just wanted to be out there because I always left my stress at the sand. I was making solo trips to Hatteras and other places, too. Surfing by myself really helped be more comfortable in the water.

S&A: What’s your current go-to board and what do you like most about it?

MA: Man I wish I could tell you, haha! 5’9 x 2.5 x 19.25 WRV Slayer by Jesse Fernandez, had so much drive, control, and floatation in conditions up to head high. It was the best board I’ve ever owned I think. Nowadays, its not surprising for you to see me with at least three boards in my car. As I tell my friends, my boards change with the breaks. While I was staying in Florida, my fling was an old, brown, delaminated WRV Fish (5’8 maybe) from — my guess — the 90’s. It’s a great board for Croatan. I love all surf boards new and old, though.

S&A: What keeps you busy outside of the water these days?

MA: If I’m not in of the water, you can usually find me working my job at Pungo Blueberries, the pharmacy or splitting firewood. Unless I’m at school that is of course, working on my degree for computer science. I’m a pretty busy guy, I guess.

S&A: Outside of surfing, what other pursuits get you stoked?

MA: I really enjoy recycling, fixing and making things. I think it’s just because I’ve never had a lot of money growing up, so I was taught to utilize what I had in front of me. I was really into shaping surfboards for awhile , just for myself though. Striping old foam down, making something new with your own hands and having it ride good is such cool feeling. I was making handplanes and surfboard fins too with recycled cigar boxes and paint sticks. Whenever I get the chance, I like busting out my camera and disappearing into the wilderness, or whereever for that matter, to take a couple clips, or pictures. Though I maybe not be the best, I still enjoy the disconnect of being outside and away from wi-fi.

S&A: What makes Sandbridge such a special place to be a surfer?

MA: Sandbridge has given a lot of great things to me in my life. The community for me is what makes Sandbridge such a special place to a surfer. A lot of the people I surfed with in my early years, I surf with today, so we all usually get the waves we want and respect each other’s space. We’re all are just out there for good time, you know. Especially when the waves are good — there is honestly no place I’d rather be!