Traditional Surfing with Evan Micele

Some surfers would say that surfing is all about tradition.

That sounds wonderful and makes for a great nostalgic patina for the next ‘important’ documentary but like most simple statements, it over-simplifies something much bigger.  The first surfers were far from traditional when they went into the sea looking for joy out of something that must have been immensely terrifying before it ever became comfortable.  The counter culture that grew out of surfing and skateboarding was the exact opposite of traditional.  I’m not advocating forgetting our rich history but if our forefathers saw our approach growing stagnant as we stare backwards they’d give us all wedgies!  The same people we revere were mocked as they constantly tested materials, flex patterns, rails, and fins.  At the other end of the spectrum, we should be wary of the next latest and greatest that is being touted by any industry.  Basically, let’s think with our feet.  What feels good?  How will I make that section?

The first paragraph wasn’t to lecture you but to explain why we love team rider, Evan Micele.  Evan is a fantastic long boarder at any age but don’t put him in a box.  While he gathers inspiration from the past, he certainly isn’t bound by their play book.  He enjoys his time in the barrel as much as the next OBX rat.  Evan is just having fun surfing, experimenting, and living; and that is the real surfing tradition.  I’ll just leave these photos here for you to see ‘traditional surfing’ at its finest.

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