Photos by Shaun Devine. Words by John Streit.

The dictionary defines the word “hollow” in a number of ways. As an adjective, it describes something having a hole or empty space inside. As a noun, it’s the hole itself. In verb form, it’s the action of creating the hole.

Let’s explore how dynamic action of swell interacting with the ocean floor creates each manifestation of “hollow.”

Verb: The circular flow of fluid energy overcomes itself as it hits the shallows, pitching the crest outward to the trough as its momentum and gravity create an empty space.

Adjective: Then it comes into being: a hollow wave.

Noun: The barrel itself, the vortex in which the surfer aspires to be.

So as we celebrate All Hollow’s Eve, we look back on the All Hollows Day that preceded on Thursday, October 29. While thousands upon thousands of photos were taken of this one-day, pre-frontal autumn swell; there’s something timeless and enchanting about these images — captured by Surf & Adventure team rider Shaun Devine just after daybreak — of the hallowed, hollow sandbars of the Outer Banks.


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